![]() I’m all for progress, but when it comes to dessert I’ll take nostalgia. 460 avis Nº 59 sur 6 984 restaurants à New York - Française Européenne Bar à vins. ![]() ![]() Walking down Prince Street, en route to the subway, I passed a storefront I’d never noticed before-Sugar Wood, a self-described “sex-positive” bakery specializing in waffles shaped like human genitalia, complete with icing-as-bodily-fluid. The same ice cream is scooped into house-made cream soda or cola, for floats, and packed into sundaes topped with hot fudge, whipped cream, sprinkles, and Luxardo maraschino cherries. Because this is a luncheonette, there are milkshakes, made with ice cream from Adirondack Creamery (chocolate, vanilla, strawberry, pistachio) and overflowing from tall soda-fountain-style glasses. If this all sounds a bit heavy, Revelie is probably not the place for you-I haven’t even mentioned the French onion soup or the clams Casino.īecause this is a French restaurant, there is wine the other night, I paired my roast chicken and coleslaw with a lovely Lambrusco. Even better are the paper-thin, copper-colored potato chips, made in-house, that are scattered atop a perfect, towering B.L.T.-thick slices of buttery brioche with crisp bacon, shredded lettuce, tomato, and a horseradish rémoulade. (There’s also a satisfying veggie melt, with goat cheese, mushrooms, roasted peppers, and spinach.)įries come separately but are worth it, crinkle-cut and slightly Frenchified with a smattering of garlic and parsley. Amelie is a solid wine bar with a very good menu its own right. But it’s hard to argue with Revelie’s straightforward patty on a soft white bun, with shredded lettuce, tomato, American cheese, and mayo, or with the oozy patty melt, caramelized onions spilling out from between two crisped, buttered slices of rye sourdough. You might be disappointed to learn that the burger here is not the same as the one at Raoul’s-offered in famously limited quantities, topped with au-poivre mayonnaise, triple-cream Saint-André cheese, watercress, red onion, and cornichon. It’s easy to imagine the menu’s French café standards-a lovely onion tart, accompanied by a lightly dressed mesclun salad a superlative croque-madame a stack of jambon-beurre, the classic ham-and-butter sandwich, displayed under a glass cloche-having been served for decades across the street, if Raoul’s were open for lunch. With the exception of sriracha (mixed with honey and served with chicken tenders), an Impossible Burger, and a baby-kale Caesar salad, nothing that comes out of the kitchen adheres to recent trends, or indicates ego or pretension on the part of the chefs, David Honeysett and Moussa Thiam.
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